Saturday, October 27, 2018

Cambodia surprised me

Entrance to the "Killing Fields" memorial in Sien Reap
Cambodia is a country that I had little or no interest in visiting when I decided to visit South East Asia. You see, I had closely followed events there during the terrible period, 1975-1979 when the despot, Pol Pot murdered over a quarter of the population in that country. His terrible regime was backed and armed by the Chinese communists.

Skulls found in mass graves in the region, on display
 

His reason for the genocide, resonated a great deal with us thousands of miles away in Jamaica, as it was in our view, a typical aspect of a communist cleansing.


This was the period during the cold war era when communists were trying to foist their violent ideology on the world. We too in Jamaica were in grave danger of being overcome by communists, as local communist forces were being armed and assisted by the Castro regime in neighboring Cuba.

From 1976-1980, we fought an "undeclared" civil war to keep the communists at bay, so the atroicities we were learning about in Cambodia which were broadcast daily by the British BBC, would not overtake us. By the time Pol Pot was stopped in Cambodia, he had massacred over two million of his countrymen and totally dislocated the population by moving people from their homes and dispersing them all over the countryside.

A shrine to the victims at the "Killing Fields" memorial
That period has long passed and the Berlin wall has fallen, so in 2018, communism was no longer a threat, but my memories of the story of Cambodia remained so entrenched, that it took my friend Gabby, a Jamaican resident in Vietnam, quite some time to convince me that Cambodia was worth visiting. The cheap air fares in the region were also another incentive!

The final spur though came from a young lady I met on a visit to Ha Long in Vietnam. She was a teacher in Britain but had been undertaking the arduous task of having to work while studying for her master's degree. So she said she decided to take a break to tour Southeast Asia and had been doing so for some three months. When I picked her brains about which was the most scenic country she had visited so far, the unhesitant answer was Cambodia.


On a  Tuk Tuk tour of Angkor
With only two days to spare, we flew from Thailand to Siem Reap, a highly recommended UNESCO World Heritage site.

 That was probably the best decision of my life as from what I saw of Cambodia in that short time, certainly indicates that my British friend and Gabby were both on target.

To begin with, the Cambodian people were by far the most friendly, helpful and humble people I encountered during my short visit to South East Asia.

In questioning some who I met about the events during the Pol Pot genocidal period, while I discovered that most had not even been born then, just about everyone knew someone who had either been killed, forcefully relocated or imprisoned during the period so knew everything about it. I also learned that nothing was taught in the schools about that aspect of their history but the older generation always spoke about it, always expressing bewilderment with the question; "Why did he do that to his own people?"

No one seemed to have a real explanation and it is something that I suspect will remain unanswered during their entire history.
The impressive Angkor Wat (Wat means temple)

While the government does not give much information about the period, I was told, to their credit, all over the country there are killing fields memorials where skulls retrieved from mass graves are put display along with written, harrowing tales as told by survivors and of course shrines for the souls of the dead.

We got the opportunity to visit the memorial at Siem Reap and it certainly brought home the real brutality of that terrible period and communism in action.

Cambodia is now open for business though and no more is this more obvious than in Siem Reap where the
A young Buddhist monk performs rites at Angkor Wat
US dollar is even used interchangeably with their own Reil. That province is certainly very tourism oriented with a night market where just about every type of Asian food can be found as well as arts and crafts. And the prices are really good.

The big drawing card is, of course,  the Angkor Complex which has been recognized and protected by UNESCO  for 25 years. This is located on over four hundred acres of land, much of which is still in the forest.

Here you have on display, one of the largest collections of religious monuments in the world some of which are still being used.

Hindu carvings are visible all over
This area was originally constructed in the 9th century as the center of the Khmer Empire but was finally abandoned in the early 1400's.

What you find here are the most intricate designs and architecture and even where huge tree roots take over buildings, they seem to do little damage as happens with modern buildings.

A massive tree trunk envelops this temple but does little damage



As I toured a minuscule section of the vast complex in wonderment, I was also enthralled by elephants all around transporting people and the monkeys which wondered easily among their human relatives!

When one baby tried to climb up the long, colorful Cambodian skirt which I had to buy to enter the sacred temple complex, I was tempted to pick it up but was reminded that they often have diseases.

One of the most inappropriate businesses I saw in' Cambodia though was a restaurant near our hotel named "Trump cafe."  
Although I wondered about the choice of name, was amused to see that during
 my entire two days there, I never observed anyone entering or leaving the premises. Does this mean the American president has no fans in that part of Cambodia, I wondered?



Some other images from Angkor







Elephants demand right of way!




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