Currie again?

One of the most beautiful, peaceful, lush and crime-free villages in Jamaica that I have ever visited, is Millbank in Portland, which straddles a section of the John Crow Mountains.

This region which is reputed to have the second highest rainfall in the world, is naturally luxuriant, flourishing, and productive. The rain plus the constant supply of water from the long, flowing Rio Grande River which you can see form every point, irrigates the well-laid-out banana, plantain, dasheen and other fields, making the area a critical agricultural supplier for the rest of Jamaica.

My first visit to that locale was in 2010, shortly after heavy rainfall had washed away part of the road between Comfort Castle and Millbank cutting off a number of small districts from Port Antonio. 

Luckily this was a cycling outing, so we dismounted and pushed our bikes gingerly along a narrow ledge with a deep precipice below. That was all that was left of the road. 

Colonel Sterling

That visit was memorable, as it was my introduction to the Moore Town Maroons, their Colonel, Wallace Sterling and tasty, unusual, exotic Maroon dishes including busso soup.

That was such an enlightening and enjoyable day that I pledged to return quickly.

And I did visit that area many other times. Once to enjoy a hike in the beautiful valley, followed by cool refreshing water massage at Nanny Falls, (named in honor of Queen Nanny). Another, to hike along the Cuna Cuna trail and a few other times to Alligator Church Bridge, where we would swim, eat locally prepared food and relax after an invigorating ride from Kingston.

The Cuna Cuna trail which is over five hundred years old, lies hidden between the Blue and John Crow Mountain ranges. Because it is replete with caves in which the guerillas could hide and it has a number of springs supplying live-giving water, it was a primary escape route for Nanny and her warriors as they battled the British who wanted to re-enslave them after they overthrew the Spanish in 1655.

The trail runs from St. Thomas to Portland and is today very well maintained by the Moore Town Maroons, who have built guard rails and rest areas for use by hikers. They also provide the guides who take outdoor lovers on the trail through the mountains.

Hospitality is nothing new to the Moore Town Maroons though, as for decades they have been building bamboo rafts and steering visitors carefully down the long, beautiful Rio Grande River. 

Rafting down the Rio Grande River through the spectacular Rio Grande Valley, is one of Jamaica's most popular attractions.

But I stray. 

It was on that first trip in 2010 that I gained a lot of information about how the Maroons operate. My informant was Colonel Sterling who heads the Maroon Council, the body responsible for the enforcement of the laws (the state deals with murder) and maintaining order.

Colonel Sterling had at that time, been in the position for some twenty years!

When I enquired how he had retained his position for such a long time, (that was twelve years ago!), he explained that the Maroons do not have set elections but whenever the residents want a change of leadership, they have their means of asking for a change or letting their dissatisfaction with the current leadership known.

So, is it that the residents of Moore Town want a change of leadership now or is it that dissention there is being instigated by outsiders? 

It was the article in the Jamaica Observer of May 9th 2022, entitled "Stalemate in Moore Town, but Maroon teen seeking leadership claims support....." which caught my interest.

The article begun; "The attempt to unseat Colonel Wallace Sterling as leader of the Moore Town Maroons failed on Sunday as no election was held in the community ......."

According to the report, the person trying to unseat Colonel was an 18-year-old young lady Lomorra Dillion who the article revealed, had the support of the Chief of the Accompong Maroons, Richard Currie, who was seen in the area.

It continued to report Colonel Sterling as saying;  "For one colonel to leave from his community to come into another to decide who should be colonel, this is wrong, downright rude, out of order, impertinent and that nonsense we will not stand...” "Currie don’t run Moore Town so he and the persons in Moore Town who are setting date for an election, we are not having an election. They have proposed the eighth of May, but we not having any, the council don’t call an election.”

It was when I read that paragraph that I had the "aha moment".

As a background, Richard Currie is the 43-year-old bombastic and 'revolutionary' Maroon Chief who was elected in Accompong in February 2021. He immediately started out by not only making demands for the Sovereignty for the Maroons but also claiming (falsely) that Maroons are the indigenous people of Jamaica!

That stance by Currie spurred me to ask in an article in January 2022, if  he had the support of the other Maroon leaders, for as you know, there are three other Maroon settlements in Jamaica and each has its own Chief.

After stirring up much public controversy, it was clearly revealed that he didn't!

This was implied by the statements coming out of a meeting (on sovereignty?) held between Prime Minister Andrew Holness on Friday 21st January 2022 and the other Maroon leaders. Currie who was not invited.

The latest developments in Moore Town have  therefore led me to conclude that having been snubbed by the other Maroon Colonels, Currie is now strategizing to get rid of that older generation of leaders and replace them with his young proxies!

Let's hope that the power-hungry young turk who clearly thinks the older generation of Maroons have been too docile, does not stir up conflict in what have been some of the most peaceful communities in Jamaica. 

He however seems to be blowing the wrong Abeng, if the recent developments in Moore Town are anything to go by.

 UPDATE

It seems Currie himself is now in trouble, for on the 11th September 2022, Accompong News Network, put out the following statement; "Official report from the desk of the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders. Telephone: 876 9908015 Email: accompongcouncil@gmail.com Date: Sept, 11, 2022 .

With an astonishing and unanimous vote by the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders, all Maroon Council members both in the general Maroon Council and the Grand Maroon Council of Elders voted on September 10th, 2022 to convict Richard Currie on more than 27 IMPEACHMENT charges along with a VOTE OF NO CONFIDENCE which automatically deposed him from his position as Chief of Accompong town. The dossier contain charges with high crimes and misdemeanors, including breaking and entering, inciting violence resulting in physical body harm, murder investigation, illegal possession of firearms, kidnapping, death threats to various individuals, intimidation, harbouring criminals in Accompong Town, malicious propaganda, deceptive advertising, promoting nefarious persons into Maroon administration, fraudulent intent with precious stone, destruction of private properties, impersonation of royal Title, financial scam, criminal intent to defraud Maroon citizens, etc. 

Never in the history of the Accompong Maroon Nation has there ever been such an overwhelming majority in any Maroon Council, the general Maroon Council was decisive and swift in its action on kicking out Mr. Richard Currie from the position of the Colonel’s chair. Many concerned citizens are already aware that the deposed and humiliated Richard Currie will not disappear quietly into the night without a fight, citizens are bracing themselves knowing that Richard Currie will try to fight the Maroon Council of Elders. The fact is, the Accompong Town Maroon Council is the supreme law of the land, not the Chief. The sheer number of members on the Council is remarkably unbelievable, for the first time in Accompong Town Maroon history has there been such a large Council, there is even a grand council within the general council, plus there is also a security council. The Grand council members are in no rush to take up office right away, they are willing to give Richard Currie a few days to vent, run to different media houses for public support and try to fight very hard with the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders, one Grand Council member said he doesn’t expect Richard to go without a fight, he understands and he feels sorry for Mr. Currie, but all Mr. Currie has done is destroy the great heritage and culture while bringing shame and disgrace to our community, all he does is braid his hair and go on all the social media and news platforms, he has brought not one single development to Accompong.

Over ninety percent of Accompong Maroon Citizens voiced their opinions that never in the existence of Accompong town have they ever experienced such anarchy in their community, all because of this new Chief. One maroon citizen cried with joy, bending on her knees praying to the sky thanking God for getting rid of the most embarrassing experience and situation they have ever seen or endured in their community. 

The Chairman of the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders is asking the public to please pray for Accompong and its citizens, for in times like now they need prayers."

Currie has been on Inatagram and radio deniying the report, but all is not well in Accompang or with his leadrship.

King Richard the 1V th?

We don’t seem too willing or able to get rid of Queen Elizabeth, her heirs and successors, but we may soon get our own local king.

Ta da King Richard the 1V!

Chief Currie

Yup, for that’s probably where the new Accompong Maroon chief wants to go.

It’s no joking matter though, for the Maroons have been the only true revolutionaries in Jamaica. 

When the British chased out the Spaniards who had brought them from Africa as slaves, they refused to be re-enslaved, so fought for their freedom. For eighty years they fought guerilla warfare against the British and eventually, their leader Cudjo signed a peace treaty in 1739.

Among the conditions agreed to under that treaty were; the Maroons would end attacks on English settlements and they would be given their own lands and autonomy. But the part that still leaves the bitter taste in the mouths of most Jamaicans is that they also agreed to, and did return slaves who ran away from the British.

In 1865,  National Hero Paul Bogle suffered the ultimate price for this treachery.

However, since independence, they have been peaceful and productive citizens in Jamaica.

Now clearly, the new leader, Richard Currie has romantic ideas of being Cudjoe reincarnate, with all the revolutionary zeal that comes with that name.

Belatedly, he is claiming that the Maroons are the indigenous people of our island.

What happened when I wasn’t watching? Because it has long been established that it was the Tainos who were! The updated version of our history is based on the premise that some Tainos escaped to the hills, procreated with the Maroons, so their descendants are the indigenous people.

Should we therefore do DNA tests to see who from the diverse Maroons qualify on the grounds that they have Taino blood?

Next, according to Chief Currie, Accompong is a sovereign state!

 Even if the Maroons are the indigenous people, (using the new criterion) are there any other indigenous people anywhere in the world who have a sovereign state?

Last year August, assuming sovereignty I guess, a group of Maroons chased away members of the Jamaica Constabulary Force who were searching for marijuana fields on their communal lands. In a video clip following that incident, Chief Currie appeared with what was said to be a rifle slung across his shoulders. He described this as being a means of protecting his people. His ancestors, he said, had bows and arrows; modern times demanded modern weapons.

Ominous indeed!

Then in early January this year, leading up to the 284th anniversary of the Maroon Treaty, the police warned against the traditional big celebrations in Accompong because of COVID-19 protocols but they ignored the warnings. The event was held, violence broke out among patrons and one person was shot dead and several others were injured.

Is Currie’s new militancy a natural progression from events in September of 2020, when Accompong Maroons designated a new currency called the LUMI, as their official digital currency?

I visited the settlement in May 2021, and while I saw their new, beautiful Central Bank of Accompong, I couldn’t get a LUMI anywhere!

As they now move full speed to become a sovereign state, l guess the plan is to finance it as we do, begging other country for alms!

Or is it the smell of big bucks from the granting of a license to mine bauxite in a section of the Cockpit country, owned partly by the Maroons, which is driving this new thrust?

Things are changing fast among some Maroons I dare say.

I remember once travelling to beautiful Millbank, in Portland and meeting the Moore Town Maroon leader. I instantly fell in love with the entire area that they occupy in the Blue and John Crow mountains, where the lazy Rio Grande River meanders lazily through the cool, lush countryside.

I have also been fortunate enough to have already visited the Charles Town and Scotts Hall Maroon settlements. Fortunate I say, since no one who knows where this new revolutionary thrust will end up. 

Will the day soon come when we need visas to visit Maroon lands because Richard 1V managed to unite all the Maroons and become their king?

The abeng, once used by Maroons to communicate 

Today, that sounds like wild speculation, but these days, one can never write off erratic leaders or speculate exactly how they will change things. For, even the powerful USA, once considered a stable democracy, is now unrecognizable, thanks to an equally erratic leader.

So let's hope this situation does not deteriorate to the point where we hear the blowing of Abengs and the beating of Maroon drums, for we already have enough violence and turmoil in our beautiful tiny island.

You tube link; https://youtu.be/DIMwZo8vTHo

Alligator Church Ride

I have always heard that there are no alligators in Jamaica, nevertheless, I went off with Fun and Thrills yesterday to see if any had turned up in Portland and and take a look at their church.

While I saw dozens of churches on the way and even a funeral in progress, I never saw any alligators and not even a crocodile (thank God).

Nevertheless it was a great day out organized by the dynamic team of Charles the 1st and the other Charles, aka ayatollah.

While we the lowly pretenders (to riding) drove to Port Antonio, the dynamic trio made up of Terr-Ann, Johann and John decided that it was too dibby dibby a ride for them, so they opted to ride all the way from Kingston, leaving at 3.40 am yet they arrived in Port Antonio minutes after us who  drove out at around 6am.

The folding bike on the left

(Incidentally, John is a British man who is pursuing doctoral studies in the USA and is visiting Jamaica to do some research. He brought along his folding bicycle and since Larry told him about us, he made contact with Howie. )

In Port Antonio, we were treated to 5 star restaurant reception with mento band and all. Not only was the ambiance impressive at Anna Banana, but also, although the breakfast was morish, the mackerel rundung that I had was absolutely delicious.

And this place is on the beach just outside of port Antionio, a lovely little place indeed discovered by Charles 1st.

There we were joined by another Foreigner, this time from Ireland. 

His name is Colin and he is in Jamaica riding around and getting to know the culture. He too was told about us by Larry (Larry seems to be our greatest admirer!)

After breakfast we warmed up with a coast ride to San San, on a suggestion by Howie. On the return journey I told Pat about the  cute little church at Trident hotel and coincidentally, saw the security at the huge closed gate, peeking over the wall. We asked him if we could come in an see the church and not only did he oblige but also he took the picture of us with the church in the background.

On returning to Anna Banana we regrouped and headed toward our destination, Alligator Church Bridge.

It was  a pleasant ride on a reasonably surfaced road until we got to Friendship and made the left turn. The roads in that southern area leave a lot to be desired but the ride was not strenuous and the scenery refreshing.

 When we got to Alligator Church Bridge, some riders opted to continue on  up to Millbank while others waited until after they had  tested the river and eaten . The rest of us just stayed there the entire time swimming, playing dominoes and lyming.

 Of course I had to play dominoes with my now regular partner Chris and we dropped the big one on Carolyn and Fatman. Then Chuck came for his share and but after a few "bruks" (we were  playing bruk an spoil") we were warned by Simpson that the food was being rapidly consumed so we needed to get our share. So Chuck was saved from the same fate that Fatman had suffered with Carolyn!

While we were there, who arrived but the entire Assam family, baby and all and we were told that Penny and Stefan had alternated on the ride up to Alligator Church Bridge!

Monique, Chully, Carol

 The food was absolutely wonderful except they had no ground provisions and just a little green bananas which was all consumed  by the time we arrived. The only alternative was plain rice.

The janga run dung, busu soup and busu and janga stew with pigs tail was out of this world, almost as good as the first time I had maroon food in Milbank. 

The river was warm, deep and inviting although it had a slight current  but we all had a wonderful time and I know this trip will be spoken of for years to come,  as we relive the fund memories.

THE SIMPLE LIFE

The Rio Grande River is ever present

One of the best meals I have ever had in my life was Janga run dung and pumpkin turned cornmeal.

In fact, I am ashamed to say that I have heard that our Maroon caterers at Millbank in Portland, are still talking about how I invaded their outside kitchen to get some more of that delicious fare. But I just could not help myself.

This happened some time ago but I just have never been able to stop talking about the food. I did not receive that delicious meal on a platter however. In fact, I worked very hard for it. Hard but pleasant work. 

For it took us about three hours of riding uphill on some of the most impossible roads, to get there.

Let me make it clear up front however that our adventure group “Fun and Thrills” is not like the professional riders you see nattily dressed in their riding gear on the road from time to time. We ride mountain bikes and proceed quite slowly, stopping a lot to take photographs, drink in the beauty around us, get a quick swim or just snack away. 

That’s the fun in our name.

On this occasion, we were riding into the Rio Grande Valley, probably the closet thing to the mythical Garden of Eden. We had started out in Port Antonio and headed south to Fellowship, uphill all the way on a narrow, paved road full of corners which took us through pleasant little districts outside the town…..nice, brightly coloured, humble country homes with happy kids playing outside and lots of fruit trees in almost every yard.

At Fellowship we headed east and from there on, any idea we may have had about “good roads” evaporated abruptly. We were now in deep, rural, Maroon country, but by God, those mountains displaying every shade of green and covered with mist, the sound of the birds, the wild flowers and trees as well as the sound of the Rio Grande gushing over the stones and creating mini water fall’s all the way, brought a new level of the peace and serenity that most outsiders never get the opportunity to enjoy.

You know, it is quite common for us Jamaicans to be introduced to some spectacular parts of our countryside by foreigners and this excursion of ours was no different. For this route into the Blue and John Crow Mountain range was being introduced to us by Kimberly John, a Trinidadian environmentalist who has been doing a fantastic job among the maroons in Portland.

As we continued our challenging, upward journey through Windsor, Alligator Church and Ginger House, the number of small farmsteads became less visible but no doubt farmers were all around as was evidenced by the small lush banana plantations as well as fields of dasheen and coffee further up the mountain side. 

Fruit trees seem to grow wild throughout the entire valley too.

As we ascended, the sun became less visible, (thankfully, as riding in the blazing sun can be very challenging) and overcast conditions prevailed. All was well until just before we got to Comfort Castle where the road had been washed away and only a tiny path was left to cross over to the other side. So we had to dismount and gingerly push our way across, looking carefully and fearfully down into the deep ravine below.

Luckily for the residents of Comport Castle and Millbank , a couple of cars had been over on their side when the road washed away. Now all their goods and produce are transported to the edge of the breakaway, then taken by manpower over the narrow path then picked up by the vehicles on the other side. This has horribly isolated them and made things very expensive for the residents of Comfort Castle and Millbank who play a major role in feeding this nation. Hopefully by now, that situation has been corrected.

Comfort Castle is a pleasant village on the edge of the Blue and John Crow Mountain range and Millbank which is reputed to have the second highest rainfall in the world, didn’t disappoint as we got a thorough soaking at least four times before we actually got to our destination. Getting soaked was by no means unpleasant however for as the rains stopped, the sun reappeared drying us off quite quickly.
Millbank is the last village in the Portland section of the Blue and John Crow Mountains before you cross over into the St. Thomas section of that range. It is your normal, rural district with the usual shops, churches and bars.

Here, the temperature is cool and crisp and naturally is it is very damp and lush. While we were there, farmers were busy packing crocus bags of dasheen which they would take to the breakaway, to be taken up on the other side to feed the rest of Jamaica.

Most of the inhabitants in the Rio Grande Valley are loosely referred to as Moore Town Maroons.

Each Maroon village has a representative on the maroon council, the body responsible for the enforcement of the laws (the state deals with murder) and maintaining order and guess what, these villages boast extremely low crime rates. I wonder what they are doing right while the rest of Jamaica gets it terribly wrong?

I guess it all comes back to leading the simple life in a lush, beautiful, peaceful, environment.

Joan Williams is the writer/publisher of Tour Jamaica and the Original Dancehall Dictionary and can be contacted at; greatestj@hotmail.com