Currie again?

One of the most beautiful, peaceful, lush and crime-free villages in Jamaica that I have ever visited, is Millbank in Portland, which straddles a section of the John Crow Mountains.

This region which is reputed to have the second highest rainfall in the world, is naturally luxuriant, flourishing, and productive. The rain plus the constant supply of water from the long, flowing Rio Grande River which you can see form every point, irrigates the well-laid-out banana, plantain, dasheen and other fields, making the area a critical agricultural supplier for the rest of Jamaica.

My first visit to that locale was in 2010, shortly after heavy rainfall had washed away part of the road between Comfort Castle and Millbank cutting off a number of small districts from Port Antonio. 

Luckily this was a cycling outing, so we dismounted and pushed our bikes gingerly along a narrow ledge with a deep precipice below. That was all that was left of the road. 

Colonel Sterling

That visit was memorable, as it was my introduction to the Moore Town Maroons, their Colonel, Wallace Sterling and tasty, unusual, exotic Maroon dishes including busso soup.

That was such an enlightening and enjoyable day that I pledged to return quickly.

And I did visit that area many other times. Once to enjoy a hike in the beautiful valley, followed by cool refreshing water massage at Nanny Falls, (named in honor of Queen Nanny). Another, to hike along the Cuna Cuna trail and a few other times to Alligator Church Bridge, where we would swim, eat locally prepared food and relax after an invigorating ride from Kingston.

The Cuna Cuna trail which is over five hundred years old, lies hidden between the Blue and John Crow Mountain ranges. Because it is replete with caves in which the guerillas could hide and it has a number of springs supplying live-giving water, it was a primary escape route for Nanny and her warriors as they battled the British who wanted to re-enslave them after they overthrew the Spanish in 1655.

The trail runs from St. Thomas to Portland and is today very well maintained by the Moore Town Maroons, who have built guard rails and rest areas for use by hikers. They also provide the guides who take outdoor lovers on the trail through the mountains.

Hospitality is nothing new to the Moore Town Maroons though, as for decades they have been building bamboo rafts and steering visitors carefully down the long, beautiful Rio Grande River. 

Rafting down the Rio Grande River through the spectacular Rio Grande Valley, is one of Jamaica's most popular attractions.

But I stray. 

It was on that first trip in 2010 that I gained a lot of information about how the Maroons operate. My informant was Colonel Sterling who heads the Maroon Council, the body responsible for the enforcement of the laws (the state deals with murder) and maintaining order.

Colonel Sterling had at that time, been in the position for some twenty years!

When I enquired how he had retained his position for such a long time, (that was twelve years ago!), he explained that the Maroons do not have set elections but whenever the residents want a change of leadership, they have their means of asking for a change or letting their dissatisfaction with the current leadership known.

So, is it that the residents of Moore Town want a change of leadership now or is it that dissention there is being instigated by outsiders? 

It was the article in the Jamaica Observer of May 9th 2022, entitled "Stalemate in Moore Town, but Maroon teen seeking leadership claims support....." which caught my interest.

The article begun; "The attempt to unseat Colonel Wallace Sterling as leader of the Moore Town Maroons failed on Sunday as no election was held in the community ......."

According to the report, the person trying to unseat Colonel was an 18-year-old young lady Lomorra Dillion who the article revealed, had the support of the Chief of the Accompong Maroons, Richard Currie, who was seen in the area.

It continued to report Colonel Sterling as saying;  "For one colonel to leave from his community to come into another to decide who should be colonel, this is wrong, downright rude, out of order, impertinent and that nonsense we will not stand...” "Currie don’t run Moore Town so he and the persons in Moore Town who are setting date for an election, we are not having an election. They have proposed the eighth of May, but we not having any, the council don’t call an election.”

It was when I read that paragraph that I had the "aha moment".

As a background, Richard Currie is the 43-year-old bombastic and 'revolutionary' Maroon Chief who was elected in Accompong in February 2021. He immediately started out by not only making demands for the Sovereignty for the Maroons but also claiming (falsely) that Maroons are the indigenous people of Jamaica!

That stance by Currie spurred me to ask in an article in January 2022, if  he had the support of the other Maroon leaders, for as you know, there are three other Maroon settlements in Jamaica and each has its own Chief.

After stirring up much public controversy, it was clearly revealed that he didn't!

This was implied by the statements coming out of a meeting (on sovereignty?) held between Prime Minister Andrew Holness on Friday 21st January 2022 and the other Maroon leaders. Currie who was not invited.

The latest developments in Moore Town have  therefore led me to conclude that having been snubbed by the other Maroon Colonels, Currie is now strategizing to get rid of that older generation of leaders and replace them with his young proxies!

Let's hope that the power-hungry young turk who clearly thinks the older generation of Maroons have been too docile, does not stir up conflict in what have been some of the most peaceful communities in Jamaica. 

He however seems to be blowing the wrong Abeng, if the recent developments in Moore Town are anything to go by.

 UPDATE

It seems Currie himself is now in trouble, for on the 11th September 2022, Accompong News Network, put out the following statement; "Official report from the desk of the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders. Telephone: 876 9908015 Email: accompongcouncil@gmail.com Date: Sept, 11, 2022 .

With an astonishing and unanimous vote by the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders, all Maroon Council members both in the general Maroon Council and the Grand Maroon Council of Elders voted on September 10th, 2022 to convict Richard Currie on more than 27 IMPEACHMENT charges along with a VOTE OF NO CONFIDENCE which automatically deposed him from his position as Chief of Accompong town. The dossier contain charges with high crimes and misdemeanors, including breaking and entering, inciting violence resulting in physical body harm, murder investigation, illegal possession of firearms, kidnapping, death threats to various individuals, intimidation, harbouring criminals in Accompong Town, malicious propaganda, deceptive advertising, promoting nefarious persons into Maroon administration, fraudulent intent with precious stone, destruction of private properties, impersonation of royal Title, financial scam, criminal intent to defraud Maroon citizens, etc. 

Never in the history of the Accompong Maroon Nation has there ever been such an overwhelming majority in any Maroon Council, the general Maroon Council was decisive and swift in its action on kicking out Mr. Richard Currie from the position of the Colonel’s chair. Many concerned citizens are already aware that the deposed and humiliated Richard Currie will not disappear quietly into the night without a fight, citizens are bracing themselves knowing that Richard Currie will try to fight the Maroon Council of Elders. The fact is, the Accompong Town Maroon Council is the supreme law of the land, not the Chief. The sheer number of members on the Council is remarkably unbelievable, for the first time in Accompong Town Maroon history has there been such a large Council, there is even a grand council within the general council, plus there is also a security council. The Grand council members are in no rush to take up office right away, they are willing to give Richard Currie a few days to vent, run to different media houses for public support and try to fight very hard with the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders, one Grand Council member said he doesn’t expect Richard to go without a fight, he understands and he feels sorry for Mr. Currie, but all Mr. Currie has done is destroy the great heritage and culture while bringing shame and disgrace to our community, all he does is braid his hair and go on all the social media and news platforms, he has brought not one single development to Accompong.

Over ninety percent of Accompong Maroon Citizens voiced their opinions that never in the existence of Accompong town have they ever experienced such anarchy in their community, all because of this new Chief. One maroon citizen cried with joy, bending on her knees praying to the sky thanking God for getting rid of the most embarrassing experience and situation they have ever seen or endured in their community. 

The Chairman of the Accompong Town Maroon Council of Elders is asking the public to please pray for Accompong and its citizens, for in times like now they need prayers."

Currie has been on Inatagram and radio deniying the report, but all is not well in Accompang or with his leadrship.

Moore Town

According to the Jamaica National Heritage Trust, ".... in 1739 Cudjoe, Nanny's brother, signed a peace treaty with the British. The Maroons thereby became the first group of blacks to succeed in gaining their freedom and having that freedom officially recognized. 

Nanny, at first refused to sign a treaty with the British but eventually agreed to a truce. Nanny's Maroons, after the truce, divided themselves into two groups one of which went with her Brother Quako to Crawford Town and the other group followed Nanny to a new settlement, New Nanny Town, now called Moore Town.

Posing with Colonel Sterling,

In each Maroon settlement was a white Superintendent whose job it was to maintain good relations between the Maroons and the British. The success of settlements like Moore Town depended to a large extent on the diplomatic skill of the Superintendent and Moore Town was fortunate in obtaining good ones. 

The most famous of these was Lt. George Fuller, an Englishman, who became the Acting Barracks's master, and later Superintendent at Moore Town between 1809 and 1823. He also started the Fuller family through marriage with a Maroon girl."

Moore Town is today governed by Colonel Sterling who has been in that position for 20 years.

 According to him, the maroons do not have set elections but whenever the residents want a change of leadership, they have their means of asking for a change or letting their dissatisfaction with the current leadership known.

Under his leadership are the villages of ;  Kent, Brown's Field ,  Seaman's Valley, Moore Town, Ginger Hill, Comfort Castle and Millbank with a population of around 10,000 maroons. They have their own regulations and their council deals with all illegal activities except murder which falls in the jurisdiction of the Jamaican state. One way they maintain a low crime rate is that when strangers come into any of their villages, guides immediately approach them to see what they want and if necessary take them immediately to the Colonel.

What I was especially impressed about is how proud they are of their culture and how it is highlighted everywhere. In fact, I had the pleasure of meeting two very nice young men there. They were Kevin Patterson and Rayon Sterling aka. RJ who is a grandnephew of the Colonel. They proudly informed me that they were members of the junior cultural group and their traditions are kept going strong as from an early age the kids are exposed to every aspect of maroon culture in their schools.

Kevin and RJ

This recent trek to Moore Town took place on February 28, 2016 when some 80 persons journeyed to the settlement under the aegis of Fun and Thrills.

Some super fit troupers namely Maurice, Omar, Julian, Derval and Johann rode all the way from Kingston and back (returning home 8 pm I hear!), amazingly some of them even  reached Moore Town before any of the other riders or hikers. The other troupers fell into two groups, B team riders and hikers. The riders drove to Buff Bay and cycled from there whereas the hikers, among which I was numbered, walked from Fellowship.

 As usual, it rained most of the day but that made it a great day for hiking as the steady drizzle really cooled us down. Actually it rains so much in that area that just outside of Windsor we saw a marker on the road showing possible flooding up to 7 feet. When we inquired from a farmer we saw  tending his banana plantation across the road if It had actually reached that height, he said he had never seen it but he had experienced the water rising to the 6 foot level a few years

ago when it flooded his field.

We were actually on a trek to the famous Nanny falls which falls under the jurisdiction of the Moore Town maroons.

As you enter the community, you could almost feel a difference but what really surprised me was the profusion of churches, at least four in the first 200 metres after we left the main road. While most were some form of evangelical denomination, I was interested to learn from the colonel  that the Anglican church there was the very first to have been built in the area, some 100 years before any other.

I loved the pedestrian bridge too, which crosses Wildcane River and leads to Corn Puss pass in the John Crow mountains.

The pedestrian bridge over Wildcane river mountains.

As we arrived, we headed straight to breakfast in the school, where we had pre-arranged to have a typical maroon breakfast.  However, the janga run dung was just not up to the standard of what we had been introduced to on  a previous trip to Millbank,  but I guess that like in all societies, you have good and poor cooks.

After breakfast, we anxiously set off on the 20 minute walk to Nanny Falls. The first thing that struck you on that journey was the profusion of apples strewing the ground. Such a waste when you consider how much they cost in the city. The good news though was that many of the trees had an ample supply of apples hanging fairly low down so we could pick and eat as we trekked.

As, the falls are way below the track we walked on, the maroons built steep steps go get down there and that was quite a  challenge for some people.

The falls that day were also really bursting  as apparently they had been having heavy rainfall in the area so the force far exceeded what we had seen on the exploratory trip some weeks before. In fact so fierce and cold was it that I did not go in at all but most other persons did and had a wonderful time bathing and frolicking around.

  Despite the vast number of persons who accompanied us on this trip and the logistical challenge that it must have caused for the organizers Ayatollah and Chuck, it was an wonderful, well organised fun day.

Unfortunately it did not end too well for the chief organizer Charles Williams and his twin Chully who had to drive back to Fellowship where some vehicles had been left, in the back of an open van in the pouring rain. However I am sure that once they got dry, they too felt that the day had been well worth all the discomforts.

Photos compliments of Janel James, Julian Dadag, Michelle Munroe and David Jo.

Cuna Cuna Trail etc.

Ever since we went to Millbank and had that delicious Maroon food consisting of turned cornmeal and janga run dung, some of us Fun and Thrill members have been dying to repeat the process ...no the food. 

So, when our environmentalist Kim who does a lot of work in the Rio Grande valley suggested we do a hike along the Cuna Cuna trail and end up at a maroon village where we would again be treated to that super appetizing gourmet delight, I have been raring to go.......

The Cuna Cuna trail is an over five hundred year old trail that the maroons established on a ridge between the Blue Mountain and John Crow mountain ranges (the Blue Mountains are to the west and John Crow to the east) first, to escape from the British who wanted to dominate them and later to transport runaway slaves that they captured for a bounty, between the parishes of Portland and St. Thomas . 

This was then an arduous trail which the British soldiers with all their training could not maneuver for not only was it heavily forested but also there are lots of caves and other sections where the Maroons could hide out and ambush them. 

Also, it has an abundance of springs with fresh life giving water which allowed them to hide out for long periods at a time.

In them old days when there were no cell phones, the Maroons had their own means of communication, the abeng. This is an instrument made from cow horn and it can send various predetermined signals depending on how they blow it. 

The sound of the abeng could easily carry through the silent, ominous hills from one parish to the other. They also used drums to send signals for religious ceremonies. Drums are made form goats' skins....... the one made from the female goat is called a Bange and has a high sound . The one from the ram skin is the Cass and has a deeper sound. 

These tools are still being used by the maroons who live in villages between Hayfield in St. Thomas to those at the headquarters at Moore Town, otherwise called Maroon Town but for ceremonial purposes, not guerrilla warfare.

It is significant that the opportunity that we got to hike the 5 mile long trail through the spectacular, undulating mountain side was on the eve of the annual National Heroes day. Of course, Nanny, the maroon leader who led her people to victory, is our only female National hero, though she is somewhat of a mythical figure as she was alleged to have the power to catch bullets being fired by the British in her bottom and fire them back at the enemy.

Just before 7 am on Sunday 17th October, 26 of us headed out in 6 vehicles and drove to Hayfield, a village of around 200 person just above Bath in St. Thomas. Like most country roads, it was narrow and in poor condition but since we had commuted in SUV's is was not difficult.

On the way up into the district, Howie, with whom I was travelling, saw a little boy between 6 and 8 years old, with a large lighted spliff in his hand. Horrified he drew up beside him told him to hand it over, but he refused and got ready to run away. As we went further up the hill we saw a man a and reported to him that a young boy was coming up smoking a big spliff. The man just laughed so we were shocked thinking it may have been a tradition in the area , but thank heavens when we joined up with our guide "Shaggy" and related the incident to him, he said he had never seen kids smoking ganja in the area so it was not a tradition.

I had made the arrangements for the trip with Ms. Wilkes who Kim and connected me with and it turned out that she has been the Chief of the Bownden Pen Maroons for some twenty years. How the villages work is that each one has its own maroon Chief and they all sit on the council at Moore town under the chairmanship of the overall Chief who is elected by the democratic process. The Maroons look after their own internal affairs although things like infrastructural work is done by the Government of Jamaica. However they deal with their crime problem except murder and criminal activities in their villages are far below the Jamaican average.

Although the cost of the journey was quite expensive, $500 to use the trail and $300 each for the guide, when we saw how well kept the trail was it was worth the money. This is an extremely treacherous area with lots of break aways but they have put is cement bridges and bamboo railings all along the way. And the path is not at all overgrown despite the high level of rainfall in the area. Fact is it is the best kept trail I have ever seen in any part of Jamaica, even having two nice rest stops with bathroom facilities and benches so that hikers can rest their weary bodies for a while.

Anyway the role of the guide was greatly exaggerated as I was told he would give us all the historical information as we went along but it turned out that Shaggy knew very little more about Maroon history than we did! He was pleasant anyway and it turns out that he is the father of "Papcaan" that rising DJ who along with Vybes Kartel made the popular and catchy tune "Mi Clarks". Shaggy proudly told us how his son got 80 pairs of Clarks shoes from the company whose sales in the Caribbean has risen over 300%, since the song became a hit! Anyway he seems to be doing well otherwise as he is now on a tour of Europe. 

Happy for him.

Anyway back to the trail . The area is absolutely beautiful...... lush, green and picturesque. The view from all angles is really awesome and the climate cool and pleasant. Shaggy did point out a few plants like the "Catchman Fig". This is a parasite but it grows into a huge tree. The one he pointed out had two huge trunks with a passage between and we walked though it on the trail. We were also introduced to the cabbage Wood tree which he said is very tough and they use in construction. A fruit I had never heard about is the Mammee which is brown and round. They say it tastes like a mango and Desiree says they have it in Guyana. 

Of course, the trail has a wide variety of ferns including the Giant Tree Fern and he did name several varieties for us. Also, brightly coloured lillies popped up just about everywhere and the profusion of palms was ever so pleasant. A funny moment was when one of the hikers asked him which road was close by as she had heard a car blowing its horn. Shaggy informed her that it was a bird called the Shine Eye! He also pointed out to us the feeding areas of the Blue dove which seems to scratch out large areas on the ground as it searches for insects. Although he promised that we would find some edible fruit to pick us up, we were not lucky enough to see and fit guavas or jack fruit that were accessible. Quite frankly in all my days of hiking I have never seen deeper ravines so I can't figure how they can get any of the fruits growing on the edges of the trail anyway.

After about three hours, we got to the cottages operated by the Bowden Pen Maroons and were met by the chief Mrs. Wilkes. Although the had told me on the telephone that we might not be able to get any janga for when it rains they are washed away, a super disappointment was that she forgot to do the turned cornmeal, the lame excuse being that since they usually eat that with the janga, it had slipped her. The food was great anyway especially the wild boar. I don't know how non pork eaters survive. Wow!

After lunch some of the macho people went to the Rio Grande River for a swim, but although I was dying for a bath to cool down, after a full belly, I wasn't going anywhere but back to the vehicle.

The walk to Bowden Pen had quite an effect on some of the participants who are not accustomed to long arduous hours of exercise. Among them, was my neighbour Verleta. 

By the way, Betty had turned back from we started the trail and Charles had gone back to the car with her then caught up with us when we got to the cottage. Well would you believe he was able to find a taxi in the middle of no where!!! For you have to understand that the road just below Milbank had broken away about two years before so they have only one or two cars in the Comfort Castle/Milbank area and passengers have to walk pass the breakaway and get other cars on the other side to get to Port Antonio.

Well somehow Charles found one of the cars and invited person s to ride back. Within minutes the deportee had eight former hikers including Verleta who really had a challenge coming down and Grace who had lost her shoes and had determinedly continued hiking in her socks from way up the hill. After they got to Port Antonio they took a minibus to St. Thomas and linked back up with us at the Bath turn off just after Port Morant.

The rest of us walked back up the Cuna Cuna trail and it was really an easy hike for the highest point was just around 2,500 feet above sea level, just over a third the height of the Blue Mountain peak and we got back to Kingston just after 8pm after an arduous but pleasant day.

Since we had nothing planned for the National Heroes Day holiday next day, Damit had asked me what I was doing and I had told him I was going to take a short ride and see how far up Mountain Spring road I could go up . Would you believe that he called me at 5.30 am! Anyway we linked up at about 6.30 am by Burger king at Barbican road and were riding slowly up the hill.

When we almost got to our regular meeting point at Widcome, we saw a number of riders and I asked Damit who they were as I couldn't believe they were Fun and Thrills riders as we had no arrangement to ride on Monday. Well it truned out to be Orrrel, Michael, Maurice and Howie . It was almost an absolutely impossible coincidence! They the are A class riders and they had decided among themselves to also ride up Mountain Spring the very same route and time we had!

After we all had a good laugh at the turn of events, they rode off leaving Damit and I behind. My granny gear was giving problems however and just as I passed over the fording my chain fell off.

 Anyway, determinedly I got back on and was doing ok until we passed where the Rasta man sells the fruits and two women walkers took over the good side of the road, forcing me into the sand. I nearly fell and had to push over the ridge until I got to the flat area where I again mounted.

By then Damit had abandoned me and I did ok until I got to the next steep section . That's when I gave again up but having passed where I had given up on my first try, I did not all at all feel badly.

However it is only when you are dead tired that you realise how heavy the damn bicycle is, for pushing it up to wailing wall was a super challenge. After resting there a while I again mounted to try out the real steep part of the the hill but by bicycle kept doing the wheelie as the front wheel kept lifting up. Again I dismounted and pushed with great effort over the super steep section.

The only thing that kept me going was the fact that we had ordered breakfast from Howie and he had kindly been voluntered by us to find us something to eat! After the super steep section I again mounted and almost reached Peter Phillips' back gate then again gave up again, being totally out of breath. Just then, my phone rang and it was Damit telling me not to go home as they were coming to rescue me. To make him feel bad for abandoning me, I told him I was already at home so not to bother and I kept on punishing up the hill. Anyway as I broke the corner I saw Maurice and Howie walking down to rescue, me trailed by Michael, Damit and Orrel. Maurice and Howie took turns pushing the extra heavy bicycle up to Howie's home so I could finish the journey with a little dignity (not puffing and blowing like an overworked train).

We were served delicious brewed coffee and breakfast followed.

What had started out as a mere leisurely ride which I had planned to abort the minute it became hard, turned out to be a tiring but a wonderful start to the holiday morning.

The camaraderie and just sitting on top of the hill looking down on the beautiful, peaceful city, invigorated me to the point that I was able to sit down and do this long boring blog without even stopping to think for a minute. I guess it is obvious that I didn't think!