LYMING IN UTAH

For years I have dreamt about traveling on a train again and this weekend the dream came through on Thursday 16th June with my trip to Salt Lake City (SLC) in Utah. 

The trip surpassed my imagination in every way. To begin with, I had been following the development of fast trains that travelled up to 700 miles per hour and expected that it might be a bit scary fast. However, I suspect that it is because we have to traverse the Rocky Mountains, ascending to over 9,000 feet at times, why this particular train snaked its way so slowly through the 43 tunnels and dozens of canyons at between 20 and 79 miles per hour. (It was a busy area too as we passed several laden trains hauling coal).

 That suited me fine since the scenery is breathtakingly spectacular. I never expected the train to be so luxurious either, with reclining seats and foot rests, more than ample leg room and even a lounge with picture windows and glass above so one could take in the spectacular scenery from all angles. The Colorado authorities went even further by providing tour guides in the lounge who gave a vivid description about each area as we passed through. 

We were accompanied by the Colorado river for over 250 miles. This river has been swelling and wreaking havoc in some areas, flooding out homes, ranches and parks. In the beautiful 12 mile long Glenwood canyon, the bike path along the river had to be closed as it was covered with water but I had to think of the cyclists who previously used that trail with the greatest respect since there are no rails between their path and the raging river. 

Wild flowers on the roof of the convention centre at Temple Square in Salt Lake City. The snow covered Rockies loom in the background.

The river is absolutely serene, inviting and beautiful in some areas and dangerously furious in others. Many rafters were taking advantage of the summer weather to raft and surf.

Although I was going to visit my long lost friend Sharon who had left Jamaica from the early 80's and with whom I had only reconnected with through Facebook, I still had uneasy thoughts about Mormons and going to Utah for one did have a perception that the place was populated by dreary, straight laced non-fun-loving people. It didn't help that as we crossed the border from the beautiful Colorado countryside and entered into Utah, the first section of that state was an arid and very unattractive desert. I felt my worse expectations being manifested.

Soon however we passed the desert and entered the other side of Utah as we approached Salt Lake City. There Sharon was waiting for me at 10.30pm and guess what she had at home for me? Stew Peas and rice with Oxtail. I had actually arrived in heaven! The city is actually situated in a valley surrounded by the absolutely beautiful, snow capped mountains not even half an hour away. 

Then on Friday the real fun began.We started off with a tour of the beautiful Temple Square which  though not as elaborate as the Vatican, is huge and fabulous showing the uninitiated that the Mormons are indeed a very powerful and wealthy religion. The spectacular Temple was built from granite and I was disappointed that we were not allowed inside but it is a fabulous piece of architecture on the outside and the grounds are massive, well kept and luxurious.The Temple square is the centre of SLC  and all the streets are numbered from that square. Their conference centre is the largest in the world,  a massive 1.4 million square feet! Think of this in terms of how many 2,000 square feet houses it could accommodate (700!) and you get an idea of the size.  The roof alone is 4 acres and it is covered in wild flowers. The seating capacity is a whopping 21,000 persons all who have an uninterrupted view of the stage. The furnishings are exquisite and expensive with numerous, huge original, religious paintings covering the walls.

While it is visited by over 300,000 persons annually, since  9/11, no one is allowed to wonder through the building without a guide.

From the portraits of the executives you see on the walls, it leaves no doubt in your mind that Mormonism is an all white religion and very male dominated. Yes they have coloured members and women from all over the world, but absolute control remains in the hands of white males. Interestingly too, the Book of Mormons is supposed to be the translation of writings found on tablets written by native American Indians, but in the initial stages of this religion it was said that Blacks and Indians could not enter the Kingdom of Heaven. 

On Sunday, Sharon's daughter Tracey and her son- in- law Brady along with their kids Morgan and Cameron, took us hiking in the nearby mountains at Cottonwood Canyon to be exact. This is a spectacular area with the Praia river raging furiously beside the trails. 

The hills from which granite was mined to build the Mormon Temple in Salt Lake City

Next we went to Temple Stone Quarry where strategically placed plaques tell the story of how the original Mormons mined the granite from the dangerous cliffs to build their beloved temple.

Rappers perform at Juneteenth Festival in Ogden

Then to disabuse me of the perception that there are only a handful of black people in Utah, Sharon drove me to the city of Ogden to the 22nd Annual Juneteenth Heritage festival, a celebration of black heritage. We had a wonderful time there listening to various artists perform, including a band made up of musicians from the nearby US Airforce base. (I also learnt that there are a number of Africans in Utah as the state has a welcoming attitude towards persons fleeing from zones of conflict and civil wars).

Colorado River, just below Glenwood Springs, Colorado

Since for my return trip meant I had to be at the train station at 2 am, we decided not to sleep but just catch up on old times for the entire night. What struck me most is the fact that while Sharon has become a staunch Mormon and I am as irreligious as you can get, our philosophies of life are in sync.                                                                                                                                                     What the heck, who needs religion if you just determine to live a life of treating others as you like to be treated?                                                                                                                                        It was an absolutely wonderful weekend which I would not have missed for anything in the world, and since I have now decided that from now on it is going to be the train for me all the way for overland travel, we are already planing a trip for next summer, when the Cox family, the Mcbride's (Michele's new name) and I will be travelling to to visit Yellowstone park by train.

I am already looking forward to it.

For more photographs see;  http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150280987231823.376650.763366822

Jerk Pork at Last

Today is one of the best days of my life in Denver, Colorado. To begin with its a wonderful summer day at last so I decided to ride my bicycle downtown to visit the Art museum. But first I must go pay for my ticket at the Amtrak depot before they raise the price on me again. A few weeks ago I called to find out how much it was return from Denver to Salt Lake City, Utah, and was told $170. When I called to make my reservation today it was $217....a whole $47 more. Absolute highway robbery, but as they say you learn from experience and I did not know that trains set their prices like airlines in that the earlier you book the cheaper it is.

I am only paying the price for this experience because I have not been on a real train (not a subway please!) since I was a teenager and feel like a kid going on my first train ride. I am going to visit my friend Sharon whom I have not seen in probably 20 years and who is now a Mormon living in Salt Lake city. Boy don't I have a lot to learn when I get there. So under those circumstances I had to pay the huge fare increase and not bawl.


Anyway, when I was leaving the train station and going towards the Art museum, I heard music playing loudly and naturally headed in the direction only to run into the Denver Chalk Art fair on 14th Street. The streets were blocked off and people were drawing all sorts of things on the pavements and the road, all in chalk.There was really some good stuff there.

As I once again headed towards the Art Museum, I ran into the People Fair. This is an annual thing where streets around City centre are blocked off and food  and other products are on sale in booths. As I ambled through the crowd, by god, what did I see.....a sign saying Jamaican food. My withdrawal symptoms immediately escalated and I rushed over. Naturally I used my best yardie language and enquired what they had only to be met with a blank stare. So I started my usual tirade about foreigners exploiting Jamaica's good name and reputation only to be joined by a man who assured me in good Jamaican language that it was not so. He said the reason why the people in the booth did not understand me was because they were his family who were born in the USof A.

My first question to him of course was if he had jerk pork and and it was as if God decided to give me a special blessing for his reply was "Den no mus". Oh lord, what sweet words. My next question was about mannish water but drew a blank there. Anyway, I was totally happy to live with mannish waterless jerk pork. I decided to go to the museum first and come back for the jerk pork after, but boy from I got  the ticket I kept thinking of some pork skin and had to just go an get it and postpone the museum tour for a bit.

It turns out the guy's name is Glen and he lives in Colorado Springs. But guess what, he is from Rocky Point in Clarendon. He laughed when I told him Rocky Point people only know to cook fish not pork, but I was perfectly correct for it was not certainly up not up to any quality jerk pork that I know of. Anyway, it had skin and it was crispy so all was immediately forgiven. After all, I have not had a decent piece of pork  (ie.pork with skin!) for almost two months so anything goes at this point.
So I sat down in the park and listened to one of the many bands performing. They weren't too bad and there was a dance area which lots of people were using, so I simply enjoyed the ambiance and the food.

The art  museum is huge with eleven levels of displays ranging from American Indian art to the African experience. This is the second time I have been there and each time it is almost a totally different scenario. I don't think I will ever come back to Denver and not visit that museum.

Designs at the Chalk Art Fair

The artists get down on the pavement at chalk Art fair

So now, finally, I am looking forward to wonderful summer days for the rest of my stay here for although the Denver weather is miserable most of the time, when the summer days come, downtown always has some excellent surprises.