LYMING IN UTAH

For years I have dreamt about traveling on a train again and this weekend the dream came through on Thursday 16th June with my trip to Salt Lake City (SLC) in Utah. 

The trip surpassed my imagination in every way. To begin with, I had been following the development of fast trains that travelled up to 700 miles per hour and expected that it might be a bit scary fast. However, I suspect that it is because we have to traverse the Rocky Mountains, ascending to over 9,000 feet at times, why this particular train snaked its way so slowly through the 43 tunnels and dozens of canyons at between 20 and 79 miles per hour. (It was a busy area too as we passed several laden trains hauling coal).

 That suited me fine since the scenery is breathtakingly spectacular. I never expected the train to be so luxurious either, with reclining seats and foot rests, more than ample leg room and even a lounge with picture windows and glass above so one could take in the spectacular scenery from all angles. The Colorado authorities went even further by providing tour guides in the lounge who gave a vivid description about each area as we passed through. 

We were accompanied by the Colorado river for over 250 miles. This river has been swelling and wreaking havoc in some areas, flooding out homes, ranches and parks. In the beautiful 12 mile long Glenwood canyon, the bike path along the river had to be closed as it was covered with water but I had to think of the cyclists who previously used that trail with the greatest respect since there are no rails between their path and the raging river. 

Wild flowers on the roof of the convention centre at Temple Square in Salt Lake City. The snow covered Rockies loom in the background.

The river is absolutely serene, inviting and beautiful in some areas and dangerously furious in others. Many rafters were taking advantage of the summer weather to raft and surf.

Although I was going to visit my long lost friend Sharon who had left Jamaica from the early 80's and with whom I had only reconnected with through Facebook, I still had uneasy thoughts about Mormons and going to Utah for one did have a perception that the place was populated by dreary, straight laced non-fun-loving people. It didn't help that as we crossed the border from the beautiful Colorado countryside and entered into Utah, the first section of that state was an arid and very unattractive desert. I felt my worse expectations being manifested.

Soon however we passed the desert and entered the other side of Utah as we approached Salt Lake City. There Sharon was waiting for me at 10.30pm and guess what she had at home for me? Stew Peas and rice with Oxtail. I had actually arrived in heaven! The city is actually situated in a valley surrounded by the absolutely beautiful, snow capped mountains not even half an hour away. 

Then on Friday the real fun began.We started off with a tour of the beautiful Temple Square which  though not as elaborate as the Vatican, is huge and fabulous showing the uninitiated that the Mormons are indeed a very powerful and wealthy religion. The spectacular Temple was built from granite and I was disappointed that we were not allowed inside but it is a fabulous piece of architecture on the outside and the grounds are massive, well kept and luxurious.The Temple square is the centre of SLC  and all the streets are numbered from that square. Their conference centre is the largest in the world,  a massive 1.4 million square feet! Think of this in terms of how many 2,000 square feet houses it could accommodate (700!) and you get an idea of the size.  The roof alone is 4 acres and it is covered in wild flowers. The seating capacity is a whopping 21,000 persons all who have an uninterrupted view of the stage. The furnishings are exquisite and expensive with numerous, huge original, religious paintings covering the walls.

While it is visited by over 300,000 persons annually, since  9/11, no one is allowed to wonder through the building without a guide.

From the portraits of the executives you see on the walls, it leaves no doubt in your mind that Mormonism is an all white religion and very male dominated. Yes they have coloured members and women from all over the world, but absolute control remains in the hands of white males. Interestingly too, the Book of Mormons is supposed to be the translation of writings found on tablets written by native American Indians, but in the initial stages of this religion it was said that Blacks and Indians could not enter the Kingdom of Heaven. 

On Sunday, Sharon's daughter Tracey and her son- in- law Brady along with their kids Morgan and Cameron, took us hiking in the nearby mountains at Cottonwood Canyon to be exact. This is a spectacular area with the Praia river raging furiously beside the trails. 

The hills from which granite was mined to build the Mormon Temple in Salt Lake City

Next we went to Temple Stone Quarry where strategically placed plaques tell the story of how the original Mormons mined the granite from the dangerous cliffs to build their beloved temple.

Rappers perform at Juneteenth Festival in Ogden

Then to disabuse me of the perception that there are only a handful of black people in Utah, Sharon drove me to the city of Ogden to the 22nd Annual Juneteenth Heritage festival, a celebration of black heritage. We had a wonderful time there listening to various artists perform, including a band made up of musicians from the nearby US Airforce base. (I also learnt that there are a number of Africans in Utah as the state has a welcoming attitude towards persons fleeing from zones of conflict and civil wars).

Colorado River, just below Glenwood Springs, Colorado

Since for my return trip meant I had to be at the train station at 2 am, we decided not to sleep but just catch up on old times for the entire night. What struck me most is the fact that while Sharon has become a staunch Mormon and I am as irreligious as you can get, our philosophies of life are in sync.                                                                                                                                                     What the heck, who needs religion if you just determine to live a life of treating others as you like to be treated?                                                                                                                                        It was an absolutely wonderful weekend which I would not have missed for anything in the world, and since I have now decided that from now on it is going to be the train for me all the way for overland travel, we are already planing a trip for next summer, when the Cox family, the Mcbride's (Michele's new name) and I will be travelling to to visit Yellowstone park by train.

I am already looking forward to it.

For more photographs see;  http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150280987231823.376650.763366822